In Goa, every village has their own bakery, and it’s much smaller than you think it would be. I know, because I signed up to make bread with a local Poder (bread maker) in Majorda while visiting the area.
The bakery was located in a family home and was in a tiny stone room at the back of the house. Inside, there was a couple tables, flour sacks and a wood burning oven – that’s it. They also only make bread and only one type of bread (crusty rolls), so if you go, don’t think of it as an American bakery where you get everything from bread to cookies and croissants.
What’s also different (and cool) is that for the most part, you don’t buy your bread at the bakery. Instead, early each morning and again around 4 p.m., the Poder drives through the village on a bicycle (or scooter) with a basket full of bread, honking the horn. People come out of their homes and buy their bread that way. It’s kind of like the ice cream truck or how milk used to be delivered door-to-door.
The rolls are also still made in traditional ways. The flour, yeast and water are mixed together. The dough is kneaded and then left to rise.
In Magorda, baking bread is a family affair. The Poder I met makes about 2000 batches a day and starts work at 3 a.m. Her mom ran the bakery before she took over.
Her husband puts the rolls in the ancient stone oven and her son rides the bike down the street to sell the rolls.
Traditionally, these rolls are dipped it hot tea with sugar.
It was surprisingly good. If you take it to go, they wrap it in newspaper.